Every month I receive over 100 emails from people having problems with their barrel horses. My first suggestion to most of the questions is for them to check their saddle fit, check their horses teeth and check to make sure their horse isn’t in any type of pain anywhere. Something as small as an ill fitted saddle can cause major problems in a horses performance. After the possibility that your horse isn’t in any type of pain, we move on to the lack of a solid foundation and training issues. Here are some common barrel racing problems and some exercises to fix them.
Running Past the First Barrel
Your first barrel is a different set up and turn then the other two. At the barrel you are coming in at a full out run from the start. You also turn this barrel at a different angle than the others. This barrel is called the “money barrel” because if you knock this barrel, your run is over with, if you leave it standing, you have a good chance of bringing home some money.
The reason many barrel horses run past the first barrel is because the lack of rate. Since they are charging full force, some seasoned barrel horses tend to get too aggressive about this barrel. To fix this you need to go back in your training and work on rate with your horse. Work on asking your horse to slowly trot or lope to the barrel. When you get to your rate point, ask your horse to stop and back up. By doing this your horse will learn to listen to your cues when you ask him to slow down for the barrel.
Rating or Ducking out the Second Barrel
When you come off the first barrel and are heading to the second, you are running straight at a fence. Some horses have a problem with this and will tend to turn to early at the second barrel. A good solution is to try putting the barrels in an open area such as a field and taking your horse through the pattern. Also, work in an arena loping your horse straight to a fence and ask them to stop at the fence. Mix in stopping at the fence and turning at the fence, but only turning the direction you ask. Pretty soon your horse will be asking you what you want him to do, stop, turn left or turn right. When your horse looks to you for direction, you are ready to run a solid barrel pattern.
Coming Wide off the Third Barrel
This is a common problem because the horse knows this is the final turn before they get to dig for home. The rider also knows it and their anticipation can also allow the horse to come with off of this barrel. If your horse is just in training, or if you sometimes do practice runs to tune your horse up, never run back from the barrel. Always complete the turn and head to the fence and come along the fence back to the start/finish line. Doing this completes the barrel turn for the horse and also for the rider. Another good exercise is too set up a few barrels in no particular pattern, and have your horse turn them in your order. Doing this will help the horse listen to you when you want him to turn, and not just drill a pattern into his head.
Dropping the Shoulder into the Barrel
If your horse has a habit of knocking barrels over, one of the common causes is a dropped shoulder. This exercise is a good way to help your horse pick up his shoulder. While going to the barrel aim your horse for the normal rate point and the point where you would ask your horse to start turning the barrel. At this point, ask your horse to turn the opposite direction away from the barrel. Do a complete turn so you are facing back the direction you came. Ride back a ways and turn again aiming for the barrel. You can repeat this exercise if you feel your horse again dropping into the barrel.
Wanting to Go back to Start after the First or Second Barrel
A very common problem in barrel horses. They will come around the first or second barrel and want to head right back to the ‘Out’ gate. There are a few ways to try to deal with this problem. The most important thing is be ready for it. Don’t let your horse think he has gotten the best of you by doing this. An exercise to try is setting the pattern up the opposite way then you usually do. In other words, put the first and second barrels on the side of the arena that the third barrel usually is, so you are coming into the pattern from the other side of the arena. Just by a change of scenery may help your horse to listen to what you are asking of them. Another thing to try is having a crop or quirt in your hand. It should be on the side your horse usually goes to after turning the barrel. So if your horse comes around the second barrel and tries to go right instead of going left to the third barrel, hold the crop in your right hand. You probably wont need to use it, just hold it there as a barrier. If your horse gets really pushy, lay it on his neck as a more forceful barrier. For the training aspect of this problem, try setting up barrels in no particular pattern and having your horse go through the pattern you set in your mind. If you want to turn a barrel to the left, you ask your horse to do it. If you want to run by a barrel, your horse should do it with no hesitation. You two need to be partners in this, but your horse should also look to you for guidance.
Not Entering the Arena
A horse that will not enter the arena for a run is a ring sour and/or barrel sour horse. This horse has probably been run too much on barrels. The best thing is too take this horse off of barrels for a while. The reason for this is a horse that refuses to enter the arena can become dangerous. They can rear up, bolt, spin, try to do anything but go in the arena, and most of the time they do not care who is in their way. The best thing to do is go on trail riders, do anything but barrels. You can also work in the arena without the barrels there. This gets the horse comfortable with just walking in the arena and playing around instead of having to run, run, run.
When your horse if comfortable walking into the arena, set the barrels up in there, but don’t pay attention to them. Act like you don’t even see them. Play around a little in the ring, then just ride out. Do this a few days, then ask your horse to go around the barrels a slow pace. Try to only do this once. Than ride around the ring a little and end the session for that day. After this, try doing a slow test run with your horse. Just lope slowly through the pattern once and that’s it. If your horse did this willingly, walking into the arena and didn’t try to bolt when you set up to do the barrels, try taking your horse to a show and see how they do. Just stay calm, be confident that your horse will walk into the arena calmly and ready to run.
Not Stopping at the End of a Run
If your horse has no brakes, you really shouldn’t be running at all. If is extremely dangerous to not have control of your horse. Work on getting your horse to listen to you at slower gaits. As you progress, move up in speed until you feel comfortable and confident that you can control your horse at any speed he is going. Also, just because your horse will not stop, doesn’t mean you need to get a harsher bit on your horse, but sometimes a bit change is necessary. If you are looking to change bits and not sure what to try, contact a professional to help you in your decision.
Bio:
Billie McNamara has been barrel racing for 15 years, competing and winning in several events. She offers coaching and training in barrel racing and information can be obtained from her at brrlrcer3@maine.rr.com or her website, www.barrelraceinmaine.com.
PART II COMING SOON!
Proper Body Position while Barrel Racing
By: Billie McNamara
Even though barrel racing is a fast paced sport, it doesn’t mean you can leave your horsemanship behind. If you keep correct body position throughout a barrel run it will cut precious seconds off your time, seconds that decide if you are in the money or just out of it. There are the basic things to remember, along with a few extra details while turning the barrels.
The Basics
Always sit straight in the saddle, keeping your belly button facing the saddle horn. Keep your elbows in and your shoulders up. If you drop your shoulder, your horse will drop his, so in turn if you keep yours up, he will keep his up. The same practice can be done for the rib cage and the hip. If your horse is having problems in the turn, check your body position through pictures, videos or having someone watch you. If you sit straight in the saddle, you will be more balanced and allow your horse the same opportunity. Keep your hands low. This will give you the chance to straighten your horse out easily if needed.
At the Rate Point
The point where you are going to ask your horse to slow and down and collect himself to turn the barrel. To give your horse this signal, sit deep in your saddle and roll back on your back pockets. This is what we have trained our horse to know means slow down and collect, or rate. You can use your palm of your hand on the saddle horn to push yourself down into the saddle if your horse is a hard turner or you have problems staying in the saddle.
Pick up your reins if the horse doesn’t rate on its own. This is only to reinforce if he doesn’t slow down with your body in the saddle. At this point you want to be straight in the saddle to help your horse collect evenly. If you are leaning off to one side, it can interfere with his ability to prepare for the barrel turn.
When Turning
Even though you are going pretty fast, you need to make sure you weight is properly balanced while turning the barrel. Otherwise, you can throw your horse off taking seconds off your time and possibly hitting barrels. At the point you start to turn the barrel, shift your weight slightly to the outside stirrup, just your weight, not your body. This frees up the horses inside shoulder, allowing him to pick up his inside legs and shoulders. If your body weight is on the inside, the horse can’t move his inside leg and can not properly balance going around the barrel.
To help you keep your position during the turn and also holding on because you are turning so fast, you can drop hand to horn. You can do this at this point or at the point your horse had collected. This all depends on your horses turning style and if you have to balance him between your reins right up until you turn. The horn is there for a reason, use it! During training you can use two hands to help direct and balance the horse between your reins. When you start adding speed you’ll want to use the horn for those fast turns.
Make sure you stay seated in saddle. You can use your hand on the horn to push yourself down into the seat if necessary. You are going to use your inside leg to soften the horses rib cage and put the bend in, having him wrap his body around your leg. This is what we have practiced before while doing circles. It picks up the rib cage and the horse bends around your leg, helping with that tight turn.
After Turn
The most important part of the end of the turn is to not finish before your horse does. If you are ahead or behind your horse, you can throw off the rest of the run for both of you. Stay with your horse throughout the entire run. This will take time to get accustomed to, especially if you are riding a new horse, but it will come with time.
After you have turned the barrel, look to next pocket/rate point. This will tell the horse where to go next, and drive your horse by using your body. Your horse will go where you look. Don’t look down or behind you, look up. If you look to the next barrel too soon, you can cause your horse to come in and knock over the barrel you haven’t even completed yet. Looking up also will help your horse to go faster because you will be in the GO position. It also helps you to not look at the barrel, if you look down at the barrel, you can knock it over.
The weight that we slightly had to the outside will come back to the center at this point. You want to also shift slightly forward to free up your horses hind end enabling him to push out of the turn. You can use your horn to pull you out of the saddle if needed.
After you have turned that last barrel its time to let your horse run home! Stay centered in the saddle and let your horse have his head. Keep your weight off the hindquarters so your horse can run freely. Ride all the way past the timer so you don’t cut seconds off your time by slowing down too soon. When you ask your horse to stop, sit deep in your saddle and say whoa. Walk him around to cool him out and give your horse a good pat, you did great.
Billie McNamara has been barrel racing for 14 years, competing and winning in several events. brrlrcer3@maine.rr.com or her website, http://www.barrelraceinmaine.com
To compete in any event and win, you need to have the right equipment. Barrel racing is no different, but something you don’t need to do it to run out and buy everything at the tack shop that says “Barrel Racing” on it, and you don’t need to go buy the most expensive saddles or other equipment. I will break down the specific things you need to barrel race, and to win.
Bits
There are several bit selections available on the market today. But, not every barrel horse needs a “barrel racing” bit. You should always start as low as you can, because you can always go up a notch, but you usually can not come down once you have gone so harsh. Most properly trained and conditioned barrel horses do not need a combo or gag bit. When you start your horse, try a regular snaffle bit or a hackamore. If you have an “older” horse, you can usually use the bit you have always used on them. By older I mean a horse that is already had his basic training. Different bits have different outcomes. There are bits that lift, bits that flex, that Whoa, that make your horse flip over backwards. If you have a problem, it is not always your bit, and you don’t need to go out to find your wonder bit that will make everything go away. Re-evaluate your problem, and go from there. Seek professional help from a trainer, vet or other horse specialist if you can not figure it out.
A rider must also respect the control she is gaining over the horse with the equipment. Through patience and correct selection of headgear, a horse will learn he can't beat the bit, and he will respond. Control does not come just from the head and head gear. Correct body positions, consistent cues and leg aids all work together to make the horse and rider become a team.
Common Barrel Racing Bits and their purposes
Draw/Gag bits: add pressure to the poll adding flex and collection
Combination bits: for training and competition. The broken mouthpiece adds bend, the nose band distributes the bit pressure, and the chain adds rate. These are good for heavy handed riders as they spread out the pressure. These bits come in short and long shanks for the amount of whoa needed.
Hackamores: great for horses already seasoned. They can take the bend out of a horse that flexes too much.
Snaffles: for direct/lateral control. Most barrel horses do well in a regular snaffle bit, but they can lack rate.
Polo/Roper Bits: for rate/collection.
The options for bits and what they do:
Twisted wire mouthpiece: good for horses that are heavy in the bridle. Remember, the thinner the diameter of the mouthpiece, the more severe.
Longer Shanks: for more whoa
Short Shanks: for more lateral work
Chain mouthpiece: shoulder control, rating, and help in the turn
Noseband: comes in rope, wire or chain.
Curb Chain: for rate:
Solid mouthpiece: for horses with too much bend.
Reins
You usually want to have a one-piece rein for barrel racing so you don’t loose it when you are running. There are different styles and types out there for you.
The Martha Josey Knot Reins are a good choice, they can be adjusted in length and the knots are always right where you want them. Plus, they come in all different colors. They give you grip, but not too much that you can’t let the reins slide when you want them too.
Leather reins can be stiff when they get wet, and they can be slippery sometimes too. Along with flat leather reins, they have braided leather.
Rope reins with knots work well too, or without knots if your prefer.
There are also wax reins, but they can be sticky. You have to really watch your hands with those types of reins, otherwise you will be pulling your horse around the barrel when you should be guiding him. It is mostly up to rider preference in rein selection.
To adjust your reins to the proper length, sit on your horse and hold the middle of the reins at the loop in front of your horn. You should have a few inches between the horn and your hand with your horses head being relaxed and little tension in the reins.
Tie-Downs
A tie-down should complement the bit. It provides security and support for the horse in his turns and stops. A tie-down is something that contributes to your run, it helps your horse balance. You can ride a horse in the open or on a trail ride with out a tie-down.
When you adjust your tie-down strap, in the middle between the horses head and chest, take the strap and press it to your horse’s neck, it should easily reach. If it doesn't you need to loosen it, but if it has loops on either side, tighten it up a bit. You want your horse to be able to stretch his nose out when he is running, that is how they keep their balance.
If you have a tie down on your horse, make sure you have a breast collar on him, because you need to keep the tie down strap from getting tangled in his legs. You do not always need a tie-down. If your horse is properly balanced then it would be better to not have one on him. If you have been running without one, and think your horse may need one but you may be uncertain, ask a professional for their opinion.
There are three common types of tie-downs; soft leather, rope (uncovered or covered), and chain.
Leather tie-down is the most common. It is wide so the horse can support against it without it digging in to his nose. It is a leather noseband with a strap going over the poll and a ring under the chin for the tie-down strap to attach through the breast collar to the cinch.
Rope tie-down can be harsher because it is usually made of lariat rope. It can be covered though, either with leather, plastic or vet wrap works just as well. It has the same design as the leather tie-down.
Chain or wire are the harshest tie downs. There are two different styles of chain or wire. There is the typical halter type that puts pressure on the poll and the nose. That comes in chain or wire. Then there is the bonnet type that just goes over the ears to put pressure on the poll. Most well trained barrel horses do not need this type of restraint. Before you move your horse over to a harsher tie down, make sure he is not having pain anywhere making him throw his head up. He could have teeth issue and is trying to get away from the bit pressure.
Pads
Saddle pads are something that is up to the riders choice and the horses needs. There are so many different types out there for you to pick and choose from. You want something that will not slip, but fits comfortably on your horse. You do not want too much bulky as it can make your saddle slip. You don’t want it too thick so it causes your horses back to be sore. Make sure it compliments your horses back and saddle.
Saddles
There are many brands and types of saddles to choose from. You do not have to have a barrel saddle to compete, but it sure can help. A good saddle choice is one that is light weight, has a high horn and a high cantle, forward hung stirrups are a great option as they help keep your feet under you while competing. You probably want it at least ½ to a full size smaller than you usually ride in, you want to be able to stay in the saddle, but be comfortable. Mainly it is up to the rider, and make sure it fits your horse properly.
Cinches, Breast collars and Back cinches
There are many type of cinches out there to work with. When you have a cinch, make sure it is the correct size for your horse so it prevents rubbing your horse. You want it comfortable for your horse and kept clean.
A Breast collar is something good to have. They have breast collars specially designed for barrel racing that have a loop in the middle to run your tie-down strap through so it doesn't get caught up in your horses legs. You want your breast collar to ride in the right place and not be too tight that your horse can not breathe properly when they are running. You want a breast collar that isn’t too thin because this could create pressure points, and cost seconds off your run. Again, make sure you keep your breast collar clean.
If you can, have a back cinch on your saddle. It keeps your saddle down, which in turn keeps your butt in the saddle. When you adjusting your back cinch, you want it so it is tight enough to keep your saddle down, but not too tight that it makes your horse show you his best bronco routine. Take time for your horse to adjust to this. It is also a good idea to have a strap that runs from the back cinch to the front cinch to keep if from sliding back and irritating your horse.
Barrel racing is a tough, rough, and agonizing sport that is hard on both horse and rider. Horses have to be real athletes to barrel race, so they need to protect the areas they are hardest on
Protective Boots
You don’t always need protection on your horses legs. If you are just going out for a trail ride, you can leave them at home. They should be used for ring work and competition to protect horses of all ages.
Overreach boots or bell boots are used on the front legs of the horse. They help protect when a horse overreaches, which can happen during a run, and protects the coronet band and the bulbs of the horses heels.
There are many options for leg boots. Professionals Choice Sports Medicine Boots are a good choice. They provide protection from being hit from the outside by hooves, legs or other debris, as well as act as an Energy Absorber. With these boots, make sure you remove them between runs so your horses legs can breathe and to make sure there is no dirt inside them. You can get these boots for both the front and back legs. There are several types of medicine boots, you don't have to use just Professionals Choice. You can also use splint boots or polo wraps. If you decide to use polo wraps, make sure you wrap them properly so you don’t cause more harm than good.
For the front legs, you can also get a Combination boot, that has the SMB and the Bell boot/Overreach boot all in one.
The back legs have options too. Most times you don’t need anything on the hind legs, but if you notice your horse putting a lot of wear on them, you may need to consider it. You can use skid boots, that protect the hind fetlocks from rough stops and slides. SMB’s are also available for the hind legs, or polo wraps.
Whenever riding, you should always wear heeled boots for your safety sake. Always wear jeans when riding to save my legs from bumps and bruises.
Most barrel racers don't wear a helmet when riding, and it will be the never ending debate. But at the 2004 Wrangler National Finals Rodeo, Delores Toole wore a helmet instead of the traditional cowboy hat. She wanted barrel racers to know it is OK to wear a helmet when you race. If you choose to or not, it is only up to you. At some shows the require you wear a helmet, so it is good to have one just in case.
If you have any questions about selecting or fitting tack properly, contact a professional for help. After you have everything selected and fitted on your horse, enjoy the ride, you look sharp!
Billie McNamara has been barrel racing for 14 years, competing and winning in several events. She can be contacted at brrlrcer3@maine.rr.com or visit her web site, www.barrelraceinmaine.com.
You have decided you want to start barrel racing, you are having problems, or just need some help keeping your objectives straight and being motivated. All of this can be straightened out with goal setting. When you set goals you have to take in the level your horse is able to compete at and the level you are able to compete at. Maybe you want to just do local shows to start out with. Or you have been doing local shows and decide you want to maybe do a National Barrel Horse Association show or another larger association show. You are going to have to take extra steps that you maybe didn’t have to before to compete at a higher level.
Smaller Shows
If you decide you only want to compete in smaller shows, like saddle clubs, you still need to have goals in mind. You need to think about what events you want to enter, and if you horse can handle it. Small shows have several events. Do you know how much your horse can handle? One event or five? Set a goal for what events you want to compete in, and keep it. Make sure your horse is physically able to compete in these events, you don’t want him to get injured.
The benefit of smaller shows are the entry fees are less, you can get exposure for your horse without having to pay a lot of money, and you get better practice in. Some of the saddle clubs can be very competitive as well, so you get an idea of what a serious competition can be like. After you have some confidence with your ability to barrel race, maybe you want to try a bigger show.
Bigger Shows
Competing in say, the NBHA, involves more money for one thing. Entry fees for saddle clubs are usually only a few dollars, where NBHA entry fees can be around $25 a race. But the bonus is that it is usually a payout race, and with the new 4D format, everyone has a chance to win. So you need to decide if you are willing to put in the extra entry fees, and if your horse is ready to compete at this level.
Bigger shows are usually just that, bigger. There are usually more horses, more riders and more competition. You will be running against some of the best riders and horse combinations in your state. This can be a big emotional change for you and physical change for your horse. At small shows, you may be competing in several different events were at larger shows, it may just be barrels and poles.
In NBHA shows, there are three divisions. Youth, for ages 18 years and under, Open for any age, and Senior for ages 50 and over. You have the opportunity to compete twice, in either the Youth or Senior and then also Open. More chance for winning, but more money for entry fees.
Here are things you need to take into perspective if you think you are ready to move up a level;
* Are you prepared for the cost? - Entry Fees, More Mileage hauling to shows all around the state or region
* Are you prepared for the time to compete at this level? - There are usually several shows in a month, the shows are usually long, lasting most of the day
* Your horse will have to be more physically and mentally fit to compete here, can he handle it? - You and your horse will be waiting around a lot because of the number of competitors, he will be racing in different arenas with different footing
* This is different competition then you are used to, do you feel mentally strong enough to move up? - Maybe you were the top rider in your local club, but you didn’t rank as high at the larger show as you did in the smaller one. Don't let it get you down if you don't do as well the first time you go out. It will take time to get into a steady rhythm. If you have a good relationship with your horse, he will take care of you. Also, there are most riders you are competing against now
Set appropriate goals
If you want to just try a bigger show, try just go to a few and keep going to the saddle clubs you have been going to. Don’t push your horse are yourself too far to fast. Be realistic about your abilities and your horses. The horses health, age, breed, training and mental state all revolve around your decision.
If you are having problems at home, or are feeling discouraged, reevaluate why you started barrel racing in the first place. It is supposed to be fun! You need to get back into the fun part of it. Go to the local shows and do some of the fun events. Reset your goals of what and when you want to accomplish with your horse. Maybe he is a new one you have started because your other horse is getting a little older. Maybe your new horse just isn’t catching on as fast and you feel a little let down. You were so used to your other horse, and this new one takes a lot of concentration and work. Set a day when you want to take this horse to a show, and work from there. Even if it is a year away, you will have that goal in your head.
Billie McNamara
brrlrcer3@maine.rr.com
http://www.barrelraceinmaine.com
Originally an Open race where everyone ran together, beginners and professionals alike, barrel racing has now grown to having divisional races. The new 4D format allows everyone an opportunity to place and win at events, and even bring home some extra cash. But has this had a negative or positive effect on the industry?
The plus side of this for competitors is they now have more of a chance to be in the money. You do not need to have the fastest horse to place, but the fastest horse is going to bring home the biggest purse. With these divisions it seems the horse market has grown as well. Now you can sell a horse that is 2D/3D with the potential to be a 1D horse within in weeks if not days after he is up for sale. However, the way he ran his 2D races may not compare to the way you want to place in 2D at different events. He may have been a consistent 2D horse at a local saddle club, but taking him to larger shows he may struggle making it in 3D/4D. Be sure to check his record against other shows. Arenas, ground conditions, and pattern size all can vary on any certain day, causing your time to be different. But the benefit of that is you can sell a horse that is a few seconds off the usual winning time and still make a decent profit on him. Perhaps the reason people look for theses horses with the potential to be more is because of the 4D format. They can still place and win money while trying to improve their horses run, and they tend to be a bit cheaper then a winning 1D horse.
With this format, the purse can be larger by the number of racers there are in the sport now. Inexperienced people feel comfortable going to races and competing, even if it is with some of the best riders in the state. Often times races have an added jackpot of $100, $500, $1000 and up. Who wouldn’t that seem appealing to? But, some competitors with the capability to place and win in the 1D are displeased with the additional of the 4D and sometimes 5D races. It causes their purse to be smaller, and the chances of winning like they are used to could not be in their favor. Although, this is not reason to put down the riders in the lower divisions. If it wasn’t for the divided classes, they probably wouldn’t be bringing home enough to cover their entry fees, and their 1D horses wouldn’t be worth what they are today.
The 4D barrel race has become popular with all associations and even saddle clubs, who now hold 3D or 4D barrel races along with their regular shows. Events with added money are appearing in every state across the country, more every year. Even if you do not compete in a larger association, you have the opportunity to compete in one of these divisional events and have an insight to what is really all about, and if your horse has what it takes to be a contender.
Whether it is a positive or negative impact on the barrel racing world, it is up to you. But think how it would be if there was no 4D races. Everyone in the same class, and they only pay-out to 8th place if that. But with the additional races there are now, the advancement in barrel racing tack and training, and the way horses are bred, trained and sold, it seems that divisional racing has had a very positive effect on many areas of the horse world.
Billie McNamara
brrlrcer3@maine.rr.com
barrelraceinmaine.com
